It's hard to explain... imagine you sharing drinks with all the surfing legends, in a casual, random way.. I'm pretty sure that during this 16 days I appeared relax and confident but I am telling you now that every day my heart was racing.. I've been stocked for 16 days! that's it!!! I still can believe that I had the pleasure of being with some of the legends.. from the creator of the thruster (3 fins), passing to the coolest surfing style in the 70's that lead to a revolutionary skate and surf style still emulated today, to the man who created professional surfing format - Pete Townend, Larry Bertlemann, Paul Nielson, Rabbit, Simon Anderson,... anyway the list keeps going on and on!!!
I literally felt blessed to hear all their stories, memories and actually, just to be there ... WOW what an experience!!!








